Finishing Your Victorian Skirts with a Hidden Placket Opening
Ever make a skirt where you sew up all the side seams – easy, right? – then you have to figure out what to do with the opening? (Hopefully you left an opening in one of the side seams. ) It’s not...
View ArticleA Breakdown of How to Make the 1872 Blue Velvet Dress
Many of us, I think, use paintings, photographs and fashion plates as inspiration for our historical costumes. I mean, why not? They are beautiful and fully represent the time period of our choice. So...
View ArticleWhen is Trim Applied to a Garment?
Do you love trim and passementerie? But of course you do! It’s one of the delicious elements that draw us to 19th C. clothing. I mean, gored skirt panels are rather similar no matter what decade you’re...
View ArticleDeconstruction: 1820 Copper Evening Gown
One of my favorite things to do in historical costuming is to break down an existing garment, fashion plate, or painting and figure out how to make it. It’s like candy to me – must have! So when...
View Article8 Historical Sewing Mistakes You Don’t Know You’re Making
As we worry about how that seam or hem will come out, we also fret over whether we’re doing it right or not. I say, don’t worry about “doing it right.” Sew your project how you see fit. Use a new...
View ArticleFlatlining 19th Century Skirts
The importance of flatlining skirts cannot be understated. Although, there is a time and place for using underlinings or a lining or both. Or even leaving off linings altogether and simply relying on...
View ArticlePatterns for New Costumers
First and foremost it’s all about the silhouette of the time period you want to achieve. You build the undergarments first then all the pretty things that go on top. But as a beginner you’re starting...
View Article1895 Nine-Gored Skirt from The Delineator No.7856
Straight from the pages of the September 1895 issue of The Delineator…. Pattern number 7856 a nine-gored skirt with matching bias seam edges. Oh, to be able to purchase this original pattern of the...
View ArticleQuit Overthinking Cartridge Pleats
Over the years I’ve seen many, many costumers question and ponder and debate and frustrate themselves over how to calculate cartridge pleats. I get it. It’s pleating. Pleats need to be calculated (or...
View ArticleFabric Piecing
So you only bought seven yards. You need eight. Of course. Because you didn’t check the yardage listing before you went shopping or the store only had the seven. But you’re determined to make the dress...
View ArticleAll the Flounces! 1850s Skirt Styles
If you love making and wearing flounces (aka deep ruffles) then welcome to 1850s fashion! Stuck between the demure, sweet, simple trends of the 1840s and the billowing hoops and war-torn fashions of...
View ArticleHow I Use Historical and Modern Sewing Techniques
The question came up on my Facebook page: do I use all historical techniques in my period costuming like hand sewing, or do I use modern methods like synthetic thread and sewing machine? Some of you...
View ArticlePetticoat Lengths and Widths
We’re talking about petticoats again!! [This should come as no surprise if you’re a regular reader here.] It’s that important to your overall historical look to do the best you can with these...
View ArticleConstructing a Victorian Bustle Dress
It’s that moment when you are ready to jump into your first Victorian dress and hold out hope that it’s not as complicated as it “seams.” Because I’d been sewing clothes for about a dozen years before...
View ArticleDivide & Conquer Pleating Method
In many historical costuming instances you’ll need to pleat up a length of fabric to fit another. Most commonly it’s a skirt to a waistband. However, this can be anything really. A sleeve cap to a...
View ArticleHow to Grade Seam Allowances
Do you make the grade? It’s super important to get into the habit of grading your seams, and I highly recommend it! The process of grading your seam allowances (aka trimming to various widths) is...
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